Fuel Distance Calculator

Calculate the distance you can drive on a given amount of fuel, or the fuel you need for a planned trip.

Everyday MPG & L/100km Imperial & metric Two-way calculation
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How far can you drive on that tank?

Range or fuel needed · gallons & liters · MPG & L/100km · safety reserve

Instructions — Fuel Distance Calculator

1

Pick the question you want answered

Choose Distance from fuel if you know how much is in the tank and want to know how far you can go. Choose Fuel for distance if you know the trip length and want to know how much fuel you need to buy.

2

Select your unit system

Imperial uses gallons, miles, and MPG (United States). Metric uses liters, kilometres, and L/100km (Europe, most of the world). The calculator converts the result to the other system automatically, so you only need to enter what is on your dashboard.

3

Enter fuel efficiency and an optional reserve

Use the figure on the dash readout or the manufacturer’s combined-cycle rating. A 5–10% safety reserve subtracts from the maximum range so you do not arrive on fumes — or adds a buffer to the fuel you need to bring.

Higher MPG is better; lower L/100km is better. They are reciprocal, not proportional. 30 MPG equals 7.84 L/100km. Doubling MPG halves L/100km, not the other way around.
Real-world spending is higher than the sticker. EPA and WLTP figures are 15–30% optimistic for city driving. Track your own tank-to-tank average for accuracy on routes you actually drive.

Formulas

Two pairs of formulas cover the four combinations of unit system and direction. Conversion uses the constant 235.214, which packs the gallon-to-liter and mile-to-kilometre factors into one number.

RANGE — IMPERIAL (MPG)
$$ D = F \times E $$
D = distance in miles, F = fuel in U.S. gallons, E = efficiency in MPG. Example: 12 gal × 28 MPG = 336 miles.
RANGE — METRIC (L/100km)
$$ D = \frac{F}{E} \times 100 $$
D = distance in kilometres, F = fuel in liters, E = consumption in L/100km. Example: (50 L / 7) × 100 = 714 km.
FUEL NEEDED FOR A TRIP
$$ F_{imp} = \frac{D}{E} \quad; \quad F_{met} = \frac{D}{100} \times E $$
Imperial: gallons = miles ÷ MPG. Metric: liters = (km ÷ 100) × L/100km. Add a 5–10% reserve to cover detours, hills, and headwind.
MPG ↔ L/100km CONVERSION
$$ \text{L/100km} = \frac{235.214}{\text{MPG}} $$
The constant comes from 1 U.S. gal = 3.78541 L and 1 mi = 1.60934 km. The relationship is reciprocal — doubling MPG halves L/100km. U.K. MPG uses 282.481 instead (4.54609 L gallon).

Reference

MPG ↔ L/100km conversion
MPG (US)L/100kmRating
1023.5Very thirsty
1515.7Large SUV / truck
2011.8Mid-size SUV
259.4Average sedan
307.8Efficient sedan
356.7Compact / diesel
405.9Hybrid / small diesel
504.7Modern hybrid
Typical L/100km by drivetrain (2024)
Vehicle classCityHighway
Compact petrol7–95–6
Mid-size petrol9–116–7
Mid-size diesel6–84.5–5.5
SUV petrol11–147–9
Pickup truck13–179–11
Full hybrid4–54–5
Plug-in hybrid2–5*5–7
Quick reference: range on a full 50 L (13.2 gal) tank
EfficiencyRange (km)Range (miles)Real example
5 L/100km / 47 MPG1,000621Toyota Prius hybrid
6 L/100km / 39 MPG833518Honda Civic diesel
7 L/100km / 34 MPG714444VW Golf 1.4 TSI
8 L/100km / 29 MPG625388Mazda CX-5 petrol
10 L/100km / 24 MPG500311Ford Explorer
12 L/100km / 20 MPG417259Jeep Wrangler V6

Article — Fuel Distance Calculator

A fuel distance calculation answers two of the most common driving questions: how far the fuel in your tank will take you, and how much fuel a planned trip will cost in litres or gallons. The math is simple multiplication or division. For metric drivers the formula is distance equals fuel in liters divided by L/100km, multiplied by 100. For imperial drivers it is fuel in gallons multiplied by MPG. The harder problem — and the reason a fuel distance calculator earns its keep — is that real-world efficiency drifts 15–30% from the figures stamped on the window sticker.

The U.S. Department of Energy publishes per-model real-world fuel economy at fueleconomy.gov, and the figures usually fall short of the lab numbers that EPA assigns. The European WLTP test, introduced in 2017, narrowed the gap on the metric side but did not close it. The sections below explain how to translate the numbers into an honest range estimate, why the same car gives different answers in summer and winter, and which driving habits actually move the needle.

The basic math of fuel distance

Both unit systems answer the same question with different arithmetic. In imperial units, miles equals U.S. gallons multiplied by miles per gallon: a 12-gallon tank at 28 MPG gives 336 miles. In metric units, kilometres equals liters divided by liters-per-100-kilometres, multiplied by 100: a 50-liter tank at 7 L/100km gives 714 km. To go the other way — fuel needed for a fixed trip — flip the division. 300 miles at 25 MPG needs 12 gallons; 500 km at 8.5 L/100km needs 42.5 liters.

The conversion between systems uses a single magic number: 235.214. Liters per 100 kilometres equals 235.214 divided by MPG, and the formula works in reverse. The number compresses two conversions: 3.78541 liters per U.S. gallon and 1.60934 kilometres per mile. U.K. drivers use a different gallon (4.54609 liters), so U.K. MPG converts at 282.481 instead. Quoting MPG without the country produces a 20% mismatch that catches out a surprising number of imported-vehicle owners.

Did you know

The relationship between MPG and L/100km is reciprocal, not linear. Moving from 20 to 25 MPG saves more fuel per mile than moving from 40 to 45 MPG, even though both are 5-MPG jumps. The EPA acknowledges this is why the agency added a gallons-per-100-miles figure to U.S. window stickers in 2013 — it gives a fairer comparison between thirsty and efficient vehicles.

MPG vs L/100km, in plain language

MPG (miles per gallon) is the standard in the United States and the United Kingdom. Higher is better. Modern compact petrol cars rate 30–35 MPG combined; full hybrids reach 50–60 MPG; pickups and large SUVs sit at 15–22 MPG. L/100km (liters per 100 kilometres) is the standard everywhere else and is mandatory on all new-vehicle paperwork inside the European Union. Lower is better. The same 30 MPG sedan is 7.8 L/100km; the same 50 MPG hybrid is 4.7 L/100km.

Europe’s WLTP test (Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure) replaced the older NEDC standard in 2017 because NEDC consistently understated real consumption by 30–40%. The U.S. equivalent, EPA five-cycle testing, has been the reference since 2008. Both run multiple drive cycles — city, highway, high-speed, cold-start — on a chassis dynamometer. Neither captures hills, weather, cargo, or driver behaviour, which is why a fuel distance calculator built on book MPG will overstate your range.

  • 10 MPG — 23.5 L/100km, very large pickup or older V8
  • 20 MPG — 11.8 L/100km, mid-size SUV
  • 25 MPG — 9.4 L/100km, average U.S. passenger vehicle
  • 30 MPG — 7.8 L/100km, efficient compact petrol
  • 40 MPG — 5.9 L/100km, modern small diesel
  • 50 MPG — 4.7 L/100km, full hybrid in mixed driving

Why real-world fuel distance varies

Lab figures assume mild weather, level ground, no headwind, no roof rack, and a smooth driver. Real driving rarely matches any of those. The U.S. Department of Energy attributes roughly 15–30% of typical real-world deficit to four factors: speed, aggressive driving, cold weather, and cargo. Speed is the largest single variable. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of velocity, so a car cruising at 120 km/h burns roughly 20% more fuel per kilometre than the same car at 100 km/h. At 130 km/h the penalty climbs past 30%.

Cold weather adds another layer. The U.S. EPA estimates fuel economy drops 15–24% in city driving when temperatures fall to roughly −7°C (20°F), and short trips suffer disproportionately because the engine never reaches its efficient operating temperature. Altitude is smaller but real: roughly 3% worse per 300 metres for naturally aspirated engines, less for turbocharged ones, which is one reason mountain-state EPA ratings differ from the national label.

Roof boxes and bike racks eat range fast

An empty roof box adds 2–8% to consumption at highway speed even when nothing is in it — the drag penalty is structural. A loaded bike rack on the back is worse, around 5–15% depending on shape. Take them off when you are not using them. Internal-cabin storage costs almost nothing in fuel by comparison.

Planning a long trip with a fuel distance calculation

For trip planning, work backwards from the fuel light, not from the fuel-empty point. Most modern vehicles trigger the warning at 10–15% of tank capacity, which on a 50-liter tank means 5–7.5 liters of usable reserve. Plan to refuel before the light comes on, especially in rural areas where the next station might be 100+ km away. Add a 5–10% safety margin to the calculated range — the calculator on this page lets you set this directly.

Account for the route’s character. Highway-heavy trips will deliver close to the manufacturer’s combined figure, sometimes better. Mountain or city-heavy trips can come in 20–40% short. Headwind and rain both push fuel consumption up by a few per cent each. For commercial drivers in particular, the U.S. Energy Information Administration tracks per-state petrol prices weekly — a worthwhile bookmark for cross-state planning.

  • Plan to refuel at 80% of calculated range — not the calculated maximum
  • Add 10–20% to fuel-needed estimates for mountain routes
  • Check station spacing on rural highways — 100–200 km gaps are common
  • Winter trips need 10–20% extra fuel planning
  • Loaded vs empty changes range 5–10% for cars, much more for vans

Saving fuel without changing the car

The largest gains come from slowing down. The U.S. Department of Energy puts the cost of every 10 km/h above 80 km/h at roughly 7%, with cars varying somewhat by aerodynamic shape. Combined with smooth acceleration, anticipating traffic, and keeping tyres at the recommended pressure, an average driver can pick up 10–20% real efficiency without spending a cent. Underinflated tyres alone cost about 0.2% of fuel economy for every 1 psi below recommended pressure — a tyre running 5 psi low costs you 1%.

Idling is the most universally overlooked waste. A modern vehicle uses roughly 0.5–1 liter of fuel per hour idling for cabin heat or air conditioning. The old "it takes more fuel to restart the engine than to idle" rule has been false since the 1990s — modern fuel injection means restart costs roughly the same as 10 seconds of idle. Most newer cars implement automatic stop-start specifically to capture this.

Did you know

The International Council on Clean Transportation (ICCT) tracks the gap between official and real-world fuel economy across the major automakers. In the European market it climbed from about 9% in 2001 to a peak of 39% in 2016, then dropped to roughly 14% after WLTP. The U.S. gap has been steadier, around 20% on EPA combined figures.

Common mistakes when estimating range

Trusting the dashboard range readout absolutely

The "distance to empty" indicator on the dash uses a rolling average of the last few minutes’ consumption. Highway driving inflates the figure; city traffic deflates it. The number can swing 50+ km on a single freeway exit. Treat it as a hint, not a commitment.

Mixing U.S. and U.K. gallons

One U.S. gallon equals 3.785 liters; one Imperial (U.K.) gallon equals 4.546 liters. U.K. MPG ratings will look 20% better than the same car’s U.S. MPG even though efficiency is identical. Always confirm which gallon a quoted MPG figure uses before doing the math.

Using a single tank average as gospel

Tank-to-tank variation easily hits 10–15% from city/highway mix, weather, and minor refilling differences. Average at least 3–5 fillings before treating the figure as your real consumption. Even better: average a month of tanks.

Forgetting the unusable bottom of the tank

Vehicle manufacturers reserve 5–15% of tank capacity below the "empty" line as a fuel-pump protection margin. Driving down to the absolute physical bottom is mechanically risky — modern fuel pumps cool themselves with the surrounding fuel and overheat when run nearly dry. Refuel by the time the warning light has been on for 30–50 km, not after.

FAQ

Multiply the fuel in your tank by your MPG (imperial) or divide the fuel by your L/100km and multiply by 100 (metric). Example: 12 gallons × 28 MPG = 336 miles; or 50 liters at 7 L/100km gives (50/7) × 100 = 714 km. Always subtract a 5–10% safety reserve so you do not arrive on the very last drops.
MPG (miles per gallon) measures how far you go per unit of fuel — higher is better. L/100km measures how much fuel you burn per fixed distance — lower is better. They are reciprocal, not proportional: L/100km = 235.214 ÷ MPG. So 30 MPG equals 7.84 L/100km. Doubling MPG halves L/100km, not the other way around.
Real-world fuel consumption usually runs 15–30% worse than the EPA or WLTP sticker. The ICCT measured a 14% average gap in Europe after WLTP rules took effect in 2017, and about 20% in the United States. Heavy-footed driving, cold weather, short trips, and roof racks all push the gap higher.
Multiply the distance by your L/100km consumption and divide by 100. At 7 L/100km, a 500 km trip needs 35 liters; at 8.5 L/100km it needs 42.5 liters; at 10 L/100km it needs 50 liters. Add a 10–15% buffer for hills, headwind, or detours — so plan for 39, 48, and 57 liters respectively.
The "distance to empty" gauge uses a rolling average of the last few minutes of driving. A stretch of motorway inflates the figure; a city traffic jam deflates it. The number can swing by 50–100 km on a single freeway exit. Use a fuel distance calculator with a tracked tank-to-tank average for serious planning instead.
Yes, considerably. The U.S. EPA estimates fuel economy drops 15–24% in city driving when temperatures fall to roughly −7°C (20°F). Short winter trips are worst because the engine never reaches efficient operating temperature. Block heaters, engine warm-up under load, and minimising short cold-start trips all help.
No, and the difference matters. One U.S. gallon is 3.785 liters; one Imperial (U.K.) gallon is 4.546 liters. U.K. MPG figures look about 20% higher than U.S. MPG for the same car. Always confirm the country a quoted MPG figure uses before converting or comparing.
For routine driving, 5–10% is enough — it roughly matches the manufacturer’s low-fuel warning threshold. For rural or mountain trips, 15–20% is safer. For winter conditions, add another 10% on top. Plan refuelling stops at 70–80% of theoretical range, not at the calculated maximum.
Yes, dramatically. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of speed, so every 10 km/h above 80 km/h costs roughly 7% more fuel per kilometre. Going from 100 to 130 km/h on a 500 km trip saves about 35 minutes but burns 20–25% more fuel. The U.S. Department of Energy publishes precise per-model curves at fueleconomy.gov.
Reset the trip meter at a fill-up, drive as you normally do for 3–5 tanks, and at each fillup record kilometres driven and liters added. Divide total liters by total kilometres and multiply by 100 to get your real L/100km. A month of mixed driving gives a far more reliable figure than the manufacturer rating or the dashboard average.